Borneo and Kelly's Jungle Book
Royal Brunei Airlines on the morning of Chinese New Year – heading for a Muslim country since everything will shut down in
Once we arrived, we took a taxi to the boarder of
“Don’t worry, the man is handicapped and can not speak very well, but he can still drive the boat.” Lim explains as a guy comes up with one arm put on backwards, his knees do not bend and he has three teeth, but as promised, he is one hell of a jungle boat driver. We wait on the dock for the driver’s mom, grandma and grandpa to finish shopping in town. Lim says we are lucky today because the tribe has hunted two wild boars for dinner tonight.
Up Shit Creek with 3 Paddles
The river winds through the jungle with dark clouds above. The water is the color and consistency of chocolate milk. An hour upstream, we reached the Long House of the Penan Tribe, the former cannibals who once ruled the jungle of
http://photography.nationalgeographic.com/photography/enlarge/penan-tribesman_pod_image.html
We spent the night in a Longhouse, which is exactly that – a long house with many families living next to one another. Their homes are on stilts and connected by a long exterior porch which becomes a communal street for the village. Again, I make friends with the jungle kids who love their new glow bracelets and want me to hang them upside down by their ankles.
The slaughtered boars are out back with their heads cooking on the grill and carcasses being chopped up for dinner tonight. The bugs are
At night we play blowpipe darts, which was their way of hunting before guns. You put a poison dart in a long wooden tube and blow. I ask to see their skulls, but our guide informs me that they have been buried. The
Jungle Hickeys
From the longhouse, the chief drove us three hours upstream to the beginning of the Headhunter’s Trail of Mulu National Park where we began an 11 ½ km trek through the jungle. We waded through calf-high murky water, swamps alternated by wet roots that are hard to tell from the snakes. The forest canopy is high with red monkeys flying overhead with prickles and vines hanging in the air, all covered in moss. Leaves are the diameter of hoola hoops. You can feel the photosynthesis happening around you. Blood sucking, malaria-ridden bugs and worms are driving me nuts.
I am traveling with my friend Tim from the ANZA bike team. He is a former outward bounds instructor who came prepared with gators and Gortex boots. I’m in my aerobic shoes with ankle-high socks, so the leeches are having a feast on me. Wild boars are crossing our trail and at km 5, the downpour begins.
When we reach Camp 5, our 19 year old guide is pulling the leeches off me. I run to the bathroom to clean up and as I squat to pee, I notice my shorts are filled with blood. One little sucker crawled almost to
Camp 5
Backpackers gather from all over the world at camp 5 –
Since I do not have my backpacking gear in
I wake in the middle of the night hallucinating. With my eyes closed, I see snakes and centipedes transforming into roots and trees winding in and out of giant leaves that turn back into snakes. With eyes open I see glowing objects floating in the pitch dark. a.) This is the onset of malaria, b.) Someone has slipped me some acid, or c.) The correct answer is my mind is so stressed from the hike through the jungle. I have a horrible nightmare that our long boat is lost down stream in this storm happening outside and we’ll have to walk back to the longhouse.
Pinnacles
5am and it is still storming, but we are going to try to summit anyways. The river has raised at least a couple of meters by now. I went pottie with a preying mantis.
Our guide has calves of steel and is carrying a machete. There are no switchbacks on this trail, only straight up, pulling myself up on roots and trees, trying to aim for the ones that are not alive or have 1,000 legs. The rocks are encased in moss and intertwined with vines feeding back up to the rain forest. Some points have ropes and cables to hold on to.
At 1800m of the 2400m view to the Pinnacles, our guide turns us back due the danger of the impeding rains and the fact that if we slip, we may be impaled by a limestone pinnacle. We are soaked from head to toe and know there is nothing to see in the cloud above us.
It takes more time to maneuver down the cliff than up. At one point I remember feeling like Bat Man spelunking down the side of the bat cave, just as my tree gives way and my back hits the limestone shaft on one side and flies me back to rack my stomach on the other side and send me into a small pool of water. This is not a trip for the weak or light-hearted. I think I saw this on TV once when it was called the Eco-Challenge.
36 hours straight of rain flooded the river an extra 20-30 feet, but luckily the chief managed to hold tight of the longboat. He has been waiting for us to come out of the jungle for two nights. The usual 4 hour trip downstream only took half that today with the speed of the flood waters.
One night back in
